30 June 2015

Super Online Sewing Match II Round 1: A Sparkling Sutton

Here's my version of the Round 1 pattern for the Super Online Sewing Match II:  the Sutton Blouse by True Bias Patterns!

(more photos and details after the jump!)

When I looked at the line drawings for the pattern, I thought that with so few overt fitting and design elements--no darts, no pockets, no collar, etc., this would be a great pattern for playing around with fabric choices.  An interesting fabric (or combination of fabrics!) can really be the star here, with no fussy bits to fight with it.

I pondered a number of possibilities, looked at other people's Suttons for inspiration, and also considered what I might wear a blouse like this for--and finally decided it might be fun to make a glammed-up, date-night, drinks-and-dancing-with-the-crew version.

I used a super-soft-and-slinky interlined satin in silver for my base fabric here, and overlaid the bodice with a frilly, lightly-sequined black netting (two words: Wonder Tape!). 

I love how the silver of the satin reflects off the sequins, making them a little extra sparkly.  

In order to not disrupt the lines on the netting, I cut the front bodice in one piece. 

For the back, I tacked the pleat by hand to be sure it stays nice and sharp!

Also, can I just say that I love French seams?! I do them on every project I can get away with them on.  This was almost too bulky, but it worked. 

I liked the idea of turning and stitching for avoiding raw edges on the side seams.  The netting was a little tough to fold neatly (and pressing was dangerous and ineffectual, even with a press cloth; my poor iron still kept picking up sequins) so the side seam allowances are--well--frillier than I might like, but I don't think there's any getting around that.

I bound the neck after everything was done, sewing the binding together in a V as though it was a facing.  

(Let me tell you--this interlined satin makes AH-MAZING bias tape. It's so soft and stretchy!)

The high-low hem was also new to me--I very much liked the pattern's method for getting nice corners.

Fitting was more challenging than I expected--mostly because I don't think I've ever sewn anything with this shape before! I am narrow-shouldered and large-busted, so I always do full bust adjustments. Here, though, I really didn't want to disrupt the design by adding darts or gathers or extra pleats, so instead I chose the initial size as though I was going to do an FBA, but instead did several rounds of grading out the bodice, little by little, till it looked about right. 

I also raised the back yoke a smidge (1/4") and took a teeny weeny (about 1/8") sliver out of the front neckline.

The grading shortened the bottom of the sleeves to just about nothing. 

After trying a muslin like this, I decided I liked them that way, so didn't extend them on the pattern.  I have disproportionately large upper arms, too, so anything that gives me more sleeve room I am here for. I still get the semifluttery effect, but I have more arm movement than I might otherwise.

I was thinking of this primarily as a going-out blouse, but let's be real here: I am the sort of person who wears sequinned things to work, with no shame at all. It will very likely show up in my office one day soon.

I mean it.


Natasha Friegang said...

This turned out really cute! I like your fabric choices.

Shannon said...

I love your version! I debated about making a dressier top, but in the end decided that a more casual one would get more wear. Best of luck! :)

miss kate said...

Thanks, y'all! I really, really like yours, too, Shannon! Best of luck to you as well :-)

michelle @ sewnhenge said...

lol!! I used to also wear super fancy things to work with zero shame :) Love it!!

Lisa said...


Laura said...

This is lovely! Hope your co-workers like it too! :)

Titanium Woman said...

You did such a lovely job and with challenging fabric. It looks like a night on the town is a perfect place to wear this! Congratulations!

Anonymous said...

What a fun version, and I bet that fabric wasn't easy to work with!

miss kate said...

Thank you! Pressing was a bit of a nightmare--I was so afraid I'd damage one or both fabrics!--but I'm really dedicated to pressing so I just did it anyway, on the silk setting and with a press cloth.

Jessica said...

Thanks for the detailed look at your process. Your pictures came out great, too! :) I'm sure this will show up in Me Made May next year!


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